Profile Overview
Sunalini Menon, Asia's first female professional coffee taster, has over 50 years of experience in the Indian coffee industry. She began her career with the Coffee Board of India in 1971, introducing coffee cupping and promoting washed robustas, boosting India's global coffee reputation. In 1997, she founded Coffee Lab in Bengaluru, focusing on quality control and training. Her efforts have elevated Indian coffee varieties like Monsooned Malabar and Kaapi Royale on the world stage, making her a respected figure in the global coffee community.
In the bustling heart of Bengaluru, where the air is tinged with the scent of coffee, Sunalini Menon's story unfolds—a narrative steeped in tradition rebellion and innovation. Renowned as Asia's first professional woman coffee taster, Ms. Menon embarked on a journey that overcame societal norms and led her to champion Indian coffee over the last 50 years.
A young woman once stepped into the Coffee Board of India when it was still a "boy's club." And the rest is history.
A Foundation Steeped In Progressive Thought
Ms. Menon’s upbringing was framed within the conservative norms of post-independence India, where women's roles were predominantly domestic. However, her family life was a microcosm of tradition and progress. Living alongside her grandfather and his brothers, Ms. Menon grew up in an environment where women’s education and financial independence were both encouraged and insisted upon.
The roots of progressive thinking in her family can be traced to Ms. Menon’s grandparents. While working as a school headmaster, Ms Menon’s grandfather met British social reformer and freedom fighter Annie Besant in the 1930s. The encounter prompted a radical shift in his life's trajectory and inspired him to pursue higher education in London. His wife (Ms. Menon’s grandmother) supported his pursuit of education and sold off her jewellery to fund his travel abroad. After pursuing library science at Oxford University, he worked as a librarian at Chennai's Connemara Library and the University of Madras. This cemented his conviction that education is the key to breaking barriers and forging new paths, a guiding principle in Menon's life.
Ms Menon advocates for collective effort and collaboration over competition for the growth of Indian coffee
From Tea Gardens to Coffee Aromas
Growing up, Ms. Menon often spent her holidays in the lush tea gardens of Munnar, where her uncle was working in a tea estate. It was here where she first encountered the concept of tea tasting. The vibrant estates, the rhythmic chatter of tea pickers, and the meticulous process of tea tasting left a lasting impression on her young mind. She watched, fascinated, as her uncle and other experts slurped tea noisily, evaluated its quality, and then spat it out—a ritual that seemed both peculiar and intriguing to her.
This experience with tea tasting lingered in her memory, a subtle yet significant influence that would later guide her professional choices. Ms. Menon wanted to pursue her higher education in Food Technology and was planning to travel to New York to become a dietician when destiny revealed other plans.
While preparing for her journey abroad, Ms. Menon stumbled upon an advertisement in the newspaper for an assistant cup taster at the Coffee Board of India. The memory of her tea-tasting adventures in the hills of Munnar resurfaced, and she decided to apply for the position.
This decision was not just a leap into the unknown; it was a nod to the past, acknowledging the subtle ways her childhood experiences had shaped her interests.
The future of Indian coffee lies in our ability to work together, learn from each other, and collectively elevate our coffee.
- Sunalini Menon
The Interview: A Story of Determination and Defiance
Stepping into the Coffee Board interview room in the early 1970s was similar to entering a new world. Surrounded by seasoned professionals, all armed with doctorates and experience, Ms. Menon stood as the only woman, the least qualified, and yet the most unique in her perspective. Amidst the clatter of typewriters and the hum of deep discussions, she felt a surge of determination. The cupping test was a revelation of her innate talent, and she managed to clear it easily.
However, after the first round of interviews, she was categorically told that they wouldn’t be able to hire her as there was no precedence of hiring a woman. Ms. Menon was very upset but she challenged the gender bias, asserting her right to equal opportunity in a field dominated by men and built a case to be given the opportunity.
Her bold stance and undeniable competence swayed the final panel that was led by the then Chairman of The Coffee Board of India, Sri H.G.V. Reddy, leading to a groundbreaking decision. She was asked to sign a bond of service, marking her entry into the world of coffee as the very first woman hired by the Coffee Board of India in the year 1971.
Ms. Menon next to a coffee plant at her office in Sadashivnagar, Bengaluru
Ms. Menon sampling her coffee at a brewing workshop
Charting Unfamiliar Terrains: The Early Struggles and Triumphs
Soon, Ms. Menon began a tumultuous yet transformative journey in the Coffee Board. As the first woman in an arena reserved for men, she faced a maze of challenges. Navigating through scepticism, adapting to the intricate art of coffee cupping, and breaking through language and cultural barriers were just the initial hurdles. Despite these challenges, Ms. Menon's indomitable spirit, forged from the teachings of her progressive grandfather and her inner resilience, shone through. She gradually carved a niche for herself, transforming initial resistance into respect and laying the foundation for a monumental journey.
Within two years, she was recognised by the Coffee Board of India for her exceptional potential and was selected for advanced training in coffee cupping, a rare opportunity that propelled her onto the international stage. Under the guidance of Mr Walter Zweifel, a veteran coffee taster in Volkarts, Switzerland, Ms Menon delved into the depths of coffee cupping, the standard way of understanding the quality of coffee by tasting and smelling it. These experiences were not just about acquiring technical skills but also about understanding the global language of coffee. Ms. Menon went on to have numerous such experiences and was eventually picked by Dr. Ernesto Illy, a family member of Illy Coffee, as his protégéa marking a milestone of her coffee journey.
Our coffee is like a canvas painted with a multitude of flavour, each region offering its unique masterpiece.
- Sunalini Menon
Playing A Key Role in Shaping India's Coffee Story
Returning to India, Ms. Menon with her wealth of knowledge and a fresh perspective on coffee, embarked on a mission to learn from every department within the Coffee Board. The hands-on approach demystified the workings of the industry and helped her earn the respect of her colleagues.
The introduction of cupping in the Indian coffee industry was a major turning point, Ms. Menon recalls. This paradigm shift in the 1990s was more than just a new technique; it represented a fundamental change in how coffee was valued and traded. Ms. Menon faced initial scepticism, with farmers concerned about the subjectivity of this approach.
"They thought I would rate their coffee based on my mood," she reminisces.
However, she tirelessly worked to educate them, demonstrating how cupping could ensure a fair and quality-based payment system. Gradually, cupping became an essential tool, revolutionising the industry and elevating the standards of Indian coffee. Another significant milestone for Ms. Menon was the introduction of washed robustas in 1985.
Ms. Menon fondly remembers the excitement that these innovations brought.
"It was as if we had unlocked a secret treasure of flavours that were uniquely Indian," she says.
The Monsooned Malabar, with its distinct mellow flavour and low acidity, achieved through a process of exposing green coffee beans to the monsoon winds of the Malabar coast, became a global favourite. Similarly, Kaapi Royale, known for its bold and robust flavours, carved out a niche in the specialty coffee market.
Slowly but surely, India began taking small steps to get noticed on the global coffee stage.
Ms Menon being awarded for the contributions she has made in the coffee space.
The Rich Palette of Indian Coffee
Indian coffee's strength, Ms. Menon believes, lies in its incredible diversity. Each region of India, from the Western Ghats to the Eastern Highlands, offers coffee beans with unique characteristics.
"Our coffee is like a canvas painted with a multitude of flavours," she explains.
Ms. Menon's role in identifying and promoting these diverse flavours has been crucial. She recalls her trips to coffee plantations, tasting and understanding the subtle differences in each bean – from the citrusy notes of Arabica beans in Chikmagalur to the spicy undertones of Robusta from Wayanad.
Ms. Menon’s approach to coffee tasting was always holistic. She didn’t just taste the coffee; she immersed herself in the nuances of each bean, understanding the soil, the climate, the people, and the traditions that shaped its flavour. This deep understanding allowed her to introduce these diverse Indian coffees to the world in a way that celebrated their uniqueness.
Listen to Ms Menon's take on government's contribution to domestic coffee market
Her Call to Action for the Indian Coffee Community
As Ms. Menon looks to the future, her vision for the Indian coffee industry is clear: collaboration and education are key. She envisions a coffee community where growers, roasters, baristas, and consumers come together to share knowledge and experiences.
"The future of Indian coffee lies in our ability to work together, learn from each other, and collectively elevate our coffee," she asserts.
Ms. Menon's call to action is for a unified approach to promoting Indian coffee. She imagines a future where Indian coffees are not just known for their diversity but are also celebrated for their quality on the global stage. Her dream is to see Indian coffee garner the same reverence and respect as the world’s most renowned coffee varieties and origins. This, she believes, can only be achieved through a collective effort that brings together every stakeholder in the coffee value chain.
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