Profile Overview
D.M. Purnesh, President of the Specialty Coffee Association of India, has dedicated nearly 40 years to shaping India’s coffee industry, transforming the domestic market and elevating its global reputation. A lifelong coffee grower and fourth-generation steward of his family’s legacy, he has witnessed the ecosystem’s triumphs and challenges since childhood. Today, alongside his daughters, Chandini and Tapaswini Purnesh, he oversees Harley Estate—renowned as one of India’s top 10 coffee producers.
Mr D.M. Purnesh, a fourth-generation coffee business owner, runs the Harley Estate plantations in Chikmagalur and Sakleshpur. But his journey into the coffee industry is a tale deeply rooted in family tradition and the rich soil that nurtures the coffee of South India.
The Journey Begins
Born and raised amidst sprawling coffee plantations in Chikmagalur, Mr Purnesh’s early years were spent in a small government school situated on a coffee estate. He was immersed in the plantation lifestyle, witnessing the meticulous care his grandfather and father invested in nurturing the coffee plants. These early experiences taught him the ropes of coffee cultivation and the legacy of discipline and dedication his family had upheld for generations.
His grandfather, a notable financier in the late 50s and 60s, played a crucial role in the local coffee community. During an era when banks were hesitant to finance coffee plantations, his grandfather stepped in, offering a unique funding model. Planters received only the necessary weekly funds for payments and fertilisers, ensuring accountability and proper usage of resources.
A young Mr Purnesh often accompanied his father on estate visits, observing how they meticulously monitored the application of fertilisers and other essential practices. This hands-on experience taught him invaluable lessons about the coffee business and the importance of community support. The respect and goodwill his grandfather earned from local planters were a testament to his significant impact on their livelihoods, fostering growth and prosperity in the region.
A coffee worker walking by the drying yard and inspecting coffees during the harvest season at Harley estate
In several ways, Mr Purnesh’s family-run coffee business evolved parallel to the Indian coffee industry. The family had a long history in agriculture, specialising in coffee and tea plantations and estate management.
While preparing for the chartered accountancy examination, Mr Purnesh was also overlooking the family’s tea plantations in Ooty. Eventually, he decided to move into business full-time. His career started with a hatchery and later expanded into distribution, sanitaryware, FMCG, and various trading ventures.
When the Indian coffee market was liberalised in the early 90s, allowing growers to sell their coffee directly, Mr Purnesh was ready to take on the coffee business. This period of deregulation marked a significant shift from the stringent controls of the past, where every bean had to be surrendered to the Coffee Board.
“We had to obtain a permit [for coffee trade], and if we had even one extra bag of coffee, it was illegal, and we could be arrested for it because it fell under the Central Excise Act,” Mr Purnesh said.
With his newfound business acumen and increased freedom in the coffee industry, Mr Purnesh and his family began curing and trading coffee. They invested in high-end machinery from countries like Finland and Brazil, setting up curing works.
"We would buy coffee from planters, including our group of companies, which alone produced around 2,000 to 3,000 tons of coffee. Additionally, we purchased coffee from the market to resell internationally, handling varieties like sun-dried and parchment coffee,” Mr Purnesh said.
“At that time, nobody talked about micro-lots or advanced processing. Starting the curing works and trading was a new venture for us”. Unfortunately, the trading company incurred heavy losses due to severe market fluctuations and was shut down in 2002.
Have you tasted your own coffee? You [coffee grower] need to know what you have in your coffee.
- DM Purnesh
Finding New Frontiers in The Global Market
A turning point in Mr Purnesh’s career began when he started travelling the world in the late 90s and meeting people in the coffee industry. With 21 coffee growers, he travelled to Brazil, Colombia, Guatemala, Costa Rica, and the United States to learn about their production mechanisms and market dynamics.
This journey significantly changed Mr Purnesh's perspectives towards the coffee industry.
During this time, coffee trading in India was typically done through brokers, which limited the growers' direct involvement with international buyers. The reliance on brokers meant that growers, including Mr Purnesh, often needed more direct access to critical market information and had limited negotiation power, leading to trading losses.
With this newly acquired knowledge, Mr Purnesh returned to his family enterprise with a different goal- focusing on coffee production and independent trading. Since then, the business has grown to encompass a broad network of global buyers, focusing exclusively on specialty coffee. His clientele includes two types of buyers: those who roast coffee solely for themselves and larger importers who distribute to smaller specialty cafes worldwide. His major buyers are from countries like the U.S., Canada, the U.K., Germany, Italy, and Korea, as well as smaller markets in Japan, Australia, and New Zealand.
Mr Purnesh focuses strongly on quality and transparency, which has led to strong, enduring partnerships. Hosting buyers at their plantations has allowed them to foster trust and showcase their processes. For example, a Korean buyer, impressed by consistent quality improvements, increased their orders significantly after visiting the Harley Estate. This direct engagement has been crucial in building a robust international market for their coffee.
Listen to DM Purnesh talk about how his grandfather instilled a sense of financial discipline as a financier for coffee growers in 1950s'
The Harley Plantation Research Institute is where the magic begins before it reaches the cup.
Inroads into the Domestic Market
Another valuable lesson that Mr Purnesh picked up was during his travels in Brazil.
“They shared a fascinating story from the early 80s when coffee prices were plummeting,” he narrates. “At the time, poor-quality coffee was often dumped into the sea to maintain market prices. However, they soon realised the wastefulness of this practice. With support from the government and collaboration among producers, they began developing a domestic market. It’s remarkable how the country went from discarding coffee to consuming 30-40% of its production domestically, essentially starting from scratch.”
Mr Purnesh realised that selling to the domestic market would further bolster the coffee business. He said, “We believed in offering pure coffee, not the prevalent chicory and launched our pure coffee under the Harley Estate brand, calling it Classic Coffee. We began with just two SKUs—Classic Pride and Classic Mountain—using unique packaging designed in China to stand out.”
Today, while Mr Purnesh focuses on the production side of the estate and building the coffee industry, his daughters Tapaswini and Chandini handle the business front.
We had to obtain a permit [for coffee trade], and if we had even one extra bag of coffee, it was illegal, and we could be arrested for it.
- DM Purnesh
A key element of the business is that every bean from his estate is sold as specialty coffee. Mr Purnesh has stayed clear of commercial-grade coffee, focusing on premium quality. His estate's robusta coffee has been recognised as one of the best in India, winning accolades in national coffee competitions organised by the Coffee Board of India. These competitions, which involve blind taste tests by international juries, have been pivotal in establishing Indian robusta as a global contender. His estate has been ranked among the top 10 producers in India multiple times.
Mr Purnesh’s commitment to quality significantly elevated robusta coffee to exceptional standards.
“Once overlooked, robusta is now gaining global traction,” says Mr Purnesh. “One of our U.S. customers blends Indian-washed robusta with Monsooned Malabar, creating a rich crema that’s become popular,” he said.
Mr Purnesh believes that with proper cultivation and clean processing, Robusta can achieve a reputation comparable to Arabica, in India and globally.
Mr. Purnesh’s daughters Chandini and Tapaswini are carrying forward the legacy of Harley Estates.
Mr Purnesh’s elder daughter, Chandini, who studied industrial engineering and is a Q-grader, has taken charge of the processing and quality of coffee and guides the research team on processing techniques. Chandini’s younger sister Tapaswini is a mechanical engineer with a diploma in cuisine and pastry from Paris’ prestigious Le Corden Bleu. She has spent nearly 15 years in the coffee industry and handles the business and retail segments after production - from packaging and sales to domestic supply, export and public relations.
Their products are also popular at airports for gifting purposes. Recently, they tied up with the Coffee Board and the Karnataka government to create a Karnataka Coffee Pavilion at D2D stores, showcasing various Karnataka products, with a major focus on coffee.
Once overlooked, robusta is now gaining global traction.
- DM Purnesh
From Family Roots to India's Evolving Coffee Culture
Today, Mr Purnesh’s family estate has grown from 150 to almost 500 acres.
“We took a long-term view of the business. While the estate could potentially become valuable real estate over time, that was never our intention. Our goal was to return to our roots. I always wanted to go back to working with coffee. That’s how we approached the growth of our plantations,” he said.
Mr Purnesh boldly embraces the evolving coffee landscape in India. He feels that coffee drinkers in India are more open to experimenting unlike people in other countries who remain content with cappuccinos, lattes and espressos.
He also pointed to the rise of cafe culture in India, and said, “People enjoy the experience of drinking coffee in a cafe setting, and younger generations are keen to continue this trend.”
He believes these factors collectively indicate India’s coffee consumption is just beginning.
A path snaking towards the Harley Estate.
Mr Purnesh - the driving force behind Harley Estates
The Path to Success for India's Coffee Growers
Despite all the advancements and progress across the supply chain, Mr Purnesh remains a coffee grower at heart. He emphasises the importance of quality and direct relationships for small estate owners, who constitute 99% of India's coffee growers. He shares the example of his nephew, who is managing a plantation while working a corporate job, and is committed to selling directly to roasters, reflecting the trend of estate-branded coffee.
Mr Purnesh underscores the necessity of quality processing and proper storage, advising small growers to avoid compromising quality. "Storage is crucial," he noted, stressing that even small quantities must be stored well to preserve flavour and aroma.
Over the last twenty years, Mr Purnesh has established a world market for the Harley Estate. He acknowledges that building relationships and convincing customers takes time, but in today’s digital era, there is vast potential for people venturing into the coffee business. More small growers are now interested in creating their brands, and Mr Purnesh’s advice is to stay committed and consistent.
Above all, Mr Purnesh insists every grower tastes their own coffee.
"Have you tasted your own coffee?" he asked. "You need to know what you have in your coffee."
This foundational step, he believes, is essential for understanding and improving their product, leading to better market acceptance and success.
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