Profile Overview
Eshwar Y.K. is the co-owner of Salawara Estate. After completing his education, he assumed responsibility for the family estate alongside his brother, Sharan. Eshwar has played a crucial role in introducing innovative methods of coffee cultivation, promoting crop diversification, and experimenting with various coffee varieties.
In Karnataka’s Western Ghats, Eshwar Y.K.’s journey reflects a steady commitment to both tradition and progress. Overseeing hundreds acres across three estates—Salawara, Chikkanahalli, and Nandi Pura—Eshwar has skillfully integrated modern practices with his family’s long-established agricultural methods. Under his leadership, the operation has evolved to focus on specialty coffee production, with pepper cultivation providing added diversification while maintaining a strong focus on sustainability.
A Legacy Rooted in Coffee
The history of the Salawara estate stretches back to the early 20th century when Eshwar’s grandfather acquired large expanses of land in Karnataka, a region known for its ideal coffee-growing conditions. Originally part of a family estate, the land was eventually divided among family members, with Eshwar now managing hundreds of acres spread across three estates.
Eshwar’s involvement in the family business was always inevitable. With a degree in agricultural science from GKVK, Bangalore, and a master’s degree in agriculture business management from the University of Queensland, he returned to the estate with a modern approach. His formal education in soil management, plant biology, and sustainable agriculture allowed him to integrate advanced techniques with his family’s traditional farming methods.
“For me, it was never a question of whether I’d come back to the estate. It was always when,” Eshwar fondly recalls.
Eshwar's mission is to introduce new ways of coffee cultivation in Salawara Estate
As a child, Eshwar developed a strong bond with the land while spending time in the coffee fields with his grandfather. After completing his education, he took over the family estate, working with his father Y.N. Krishnakumar to modernise and sustain their legacy.
Armed with only academic knowledge and no practical experience, Eshwar’s entry into managing the estates was filled with learning.
“The first year or so was challenging,” he recalls. “Even though I’d studied agriculture, the real-world problems were different, but I learned quickly.” His curiosity and openness to new ideas allowed him to adapt and thrive.
For me, it was never a question of whether I’d come back to the estate. It was always when.
- Eshwar YK
Embracing Tradition and Innovation
Salawara Estate has a long history of traditional coffee cultivation and processing, but Eshwar was eager to explore new methods and push the boundaries. His aim wasn’t to replace the old ways but to refine them, incorporating modern techniques while honouring the legacy that had sustained the estate for generations.
One of Eshwar's early initiatives at Salawara Estate was to boost the production of specialty coffee, which, as of 2024, accounts for 30% of the estate’s total output. Their innovative washed fermentation process, where the coffee is pulped, fermented with its mucilage, and then double-washed, results in a scalable and efficient operation. By integrating green bean separators early in the process and eliminating the need for meticulous hand-picking later, Salawara has streamlined its production while maintaining high quality.
Innovations in Coffee Processing
Harvesting is only the beginning; the real transformation happens during processing. Eshwar’s dedication to experimentation further enhances Salawara Estate’s specialty coffee offerings. Arabica, which ripens gradually, requires multiple rounds of careful picking, while Robusta is harvested more rapidly. Each year, the estate explores five to six experimental processes, pushing the boundaries of coffee processing to unlock unique flavours. Located at a slightly lower elevation, the estate relies heavily on these innovative methods to bring out the best in their beans.
When baristas understand the process, they can tell the story of the coffee to their customers.
- Eshwar YK
Diversifying with Pepper
Eshwar's vision expands beyond coffee to include pepper, a crop of growing significance. “Pepper is incredibly sensitive,” Eshwar explains. “It took us years to understand how to manage it properly, but now it’s one of our most valuable crops.”
The estate produces 14 varieties of pepper, with the same level of care and attention that is applied to the coffee. Pepper vines are notoriously delicate, and any damage to the roots or leaves can set a plant back significantly. Each year, Eshwar and his team remove about 1,000 vines and replant approximately 10,000 new ones. The team monitors the health of the vines closely, treating any signs of disease with organic manure and carefully targeted sprays.
The diversification into crops like pepper is a strategic move, providing financial stability and reducing the estate’s reliance on coffee alone.
“In some years, coffee performs better; in other years, pepper does,” Eshwar explains. “Diversification helps balance out the risks.” It’s a lesson learned from years of observing the unpredictable nature of farming, and it has allowed Salawara to thrive even in challenging times.
Eshwar shows Team So,Coffee? the coffee beds used in Salawara Estate
Eshwar in conversation with Karumbaiah, founder of So,Coffee?
Managing Labor and Preserving Coffee Genetics
A crucial aspect of Salawara's success lies in the effective management of its labour, especially as different crops and processes require varying levels of attention. One challenge Salawara faces is ensuring that workers pick only ripe coffee cherries, especially with 60% of their pickers being migrant workers who require annual training. To address this, the estate offers incentives, providing a bonus for every kilogram picked beyond the daily target. This motivates workers to focus on selecting high-quality cherries while maintaining productivity.
The Estate prioritises a commitment to maintaining the genetic purity of its coffee plants. Running their own nurseries, they carefully select seed blocks based on plant health, particularly for Robusta, which relies on cross-pollination. By controlling this process, Salawara ensures that their Arabica and Robusta varietals remain true to their genetic roots. After the monsoon season, they plant thousands of coffee plants and shade trees, ensuring a thriving ecosystem and continued excellence in their coffee production.
Coffee saplings waiting at Salawara Estate nursery to be planted
Connecting with Roasters and Consumers
Eshwar understands that growing great coffee is only part of the equation. Building strong relationships with roasters and consumers is equally important. His brother Sharan runs GroundUp Coffee Roasters in Bangalore, which supplies roasted coffee directly from the estate to cafes and customers across India. This direct connection with the market has given Eshwar valuable insights into consumer preferences and trends, allowing him to adapt his processes and offerings accordingly.
Roasters and baristas are encouraged to visit Salawara during the processing season, where they can see firsthand how the coffee is cultivated and handled. Eshwar believes that this transparency helps build trust and creates a deeper appreciation for the work that goes into every cup.
“When baristas understand the process, they can tell the story of the coffee to their customers,” he says. “It’s about creating a connection from the farm to the cup.”
This connection is central to Eshwar’s philosophy. By fostering relationships with roasters and consumers, he ensures that Salawara coffee is more than just a product—it becomes part of a shared experience. The collaborative approach allows Eshwar to constantly refine his methods based on feedback from those who drink and serve his coffee, ensuring that the estate remains at the forefront of innovation in India’s growing specialty coffee market.
Looking Ahead
As Eshwar looks to the future, his experiments with new processes and varietals ensure that Salawara remains at the cutting edge of coffee production while ensuring sustainability.
